Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.